Footwear



R. A. PARKER Feb. 23, 1943.

FOOTWEAR Filed Nov. 28, 1940 J my Patented Feb. 23, 1943 FOOTWEAR Ralph A. Parker, Melrose,

Mass., assignor to Thomas Taylor & Sons, Inc., Hudson, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application November 28, 1940, Serial No. 367,487

1 Claim.

This invention pertains to footwear and relates more particularly to shoes wherein the upper is provided at each side with a gore of elastically stretchable material. So-called Congress shoes are of this general type, although it is contemplated that the present invention will find its greatest utility in shoes wherein the forward or throat end of the foot receiving opening is closed during use by a lace or the like. In such shoes the eyelet stay overlies the sensitive nerves of the instep portion of the foot and great discomfort to the wearer is often occasioned in drawing up the laces tight enough to close the throat opening properly, especially when the instep arch is unusually high.

The elastic gore pieces employed at the opposite sides of the shoe have usually decreased in width from the top edge downwardly, or have been of substantially uniform width from top to bottom. Since the lateral edges and the lower edge-of the gore or panel are usually stitched to relatively inelastic parts, the permissive increase in peripheral dimensions of the upper permitted by the elastic inserts is normally greatest at the top edge of the upper and decreases downwardly. If, in the effort to provide the desired degree of possible elastic increase in peripheral dimensions of the upper, the usual type of gore be merely increased in width, the result is that after a short period of wear the upper margin of such a wide gore becomes permanently stretched-producing a loose, slovenly appearance at the top of the shoe. While such per manent stretch of the upper margin of the gore may be prevented in large measure, at least, by the use of an elastic gore or panel whose upper margin is more resistant to stretch than its lower portions, as fully disclosed in the patent to Dawes No. 2,097,810, November 2, 1937, yet even such a gore, if of the usual shape above referred to within the range of widths permissible in shoes of acceptable styles, fails to provide the desired degree of elastic yield over the instep.

The principal object of thepresent invention is to provide a shoe construction wherein the upper embodies elastically stretchable panels orgores and wherein the desired degree of elastic yield across the instep is assured. without causing the top of the shoe to become loose during wear and without spoiling the fit at the ball and instep portions. i

With the above object in view, the present invention contemplates the use of a panel or gore which need not be of abnormal or unusual width at the top but which increases in width downwardly from its top edge so that at successively lower levels the length of elastic available to permit stretch is greater and greater. To enhance this efiect, it is preferred so to dispose the panel or gore in the upper that the elastic threads are inclined upwardly and forwardly, so that if extended such threads would cross the instep from one side of the shoe to the other in smooth curves. Moreover, as a further assurance against looseness at the top of the shoe, it is preferred to employ elastic fabric such as described in the aforesaid Dawes patent, wherein the upper margin is more resistant to stretch than the body of the gore, although the entire gore is of substantially uniform thickness.

By the procedure just outlined sufficient yield is'provided at the top edge without danger of undue looseness at this point and at the same time adequate elastic yield across the instep is provided to assure ease and comfort without spoiling the appearance and fit.

Other objects and advantages of the invention Will be pointed out hereinafter in the following more detailed description and by reference to the accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe embodying the invention, a portion of the upper being broken away to illustrate structural features;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary section substantially on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an elevation of one of the improved elastic gores or panels employed in the shoe of Fig. 1; and

Fig. 4 is adiagrammatic section on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3, but to larger scale, indicating a desirable type of gore fabric.

Referring to the'drawing, the numeral I indicates generally a shoe embodying the present invention, the shoe illustrated being a mans shoe, having the sole 2 and the heel 3, and an upper which comprises the quarter portion 4, the vamp 5, the eyelet stays 6, and the elastic side gores or panels I.

As illustrated more clearly in Fig. 3, each of these side panels is of more or less truncated triangular form, having the upper selvage edge 8, the front edge 9, the rear edge In and the lower edge II, it being noted that the lower edge H is substantially wider, for example twice as wide as the top edge 8, the panel gradually increasing in width downwardly from said top edge. The top edge 8 is a free edge constituting a portion of the peripheral edge of the foot-receiving opening of the shoe. The rear edge 10 is interposed between the outer and inner members 4 and I (Fig. 2), respectively, of the quarter and is permanently secured in place by the sewed seam If. The front edge 9 of the gore is interposed between the outer and inner members i and'i", respectively, of the eyelet stay by means of the sewed seam is, and the lower edge I I of the gore is interposed between the outer and linthe gore in the completed shoe, will have such a slope that its rear end will fall between a horizontal plane X and a vertical plane Y, each spaced a distance of approximately from the lower rear point of the shoe counter.

It will be manifest that by greater width of the gore piece at its lowerpart, as compared with its top, there is a greater length of elastic thread available for stretching at such lower part than at the upper part, and

thus whether the goring fabric be of the type,

disclosed inthe Dawes patent referred to, or from fabric in which the rubber is uniformly diswhile the gore is of substantially uniform thickvness, its upper margin is more resistant to stretch than the body portion of the gore. In accomplishing this result, as indicated diagrammatically. in Fig. 4,- the elastic material comprises elastic threads l5, all of the same size, are disposed in groups with a varying number of threads in successive groups. Thus (merely by way of illustration) in the group which is adjacent to the top or selvage edge 8 of the gore; there may be four such elastic or rubber threads. In the nextgroup there may be three such threads; the following group may contain two such threads, and thereafter single threads are employed. These elastic threads are preferably warp threads of the fabric .and may be covered or uncovered rubber, as preferred, and preferably have associated with them relatively inelastic textile warps IS, the elastic and inelastic wa'rps being associated and interwoven withinelastic weft yarns l1. For 'a further and fuller description of the fabric and its ,method of preparation, reference may be had to the aforesaid patent. 4 i

Having provided fabric preferably of this type but which tributed, the gore piece or panel will be capable of substantially greater widthwise elongation at its lower part than at its upper part. Thus, for example, along a line across the instep reaching from the point P to a corresponding point on the opposite side of the shoe, there is provided substantial capability of stretchof the shoe upper so that even though the shoe laces were drawn tighthr in closing the throat end of the. footreceiving opening, nevertheless the very substantial capability of stretchat this portion of the upper insures ease to the wearer and prevents excessive pressure upon'the instep of the foot.

To' prevent looseness about the top of the shoe after a substantial period of wear, the gore piece is desirably made from fabric of the Dawes type, which insures a sufficient amount of elastic material at the free upper edge to keep the upper edge taut at all times even after a long period (although in its broader aspects the invention contemplates the employment of elastic webbing,

of other types), the gore piece 9 is cut therefrom,

exercising care that the selvage edge of the goring material constitutes the narrow top edge 8 of the gore or panel. In the design illustrated in Fig. l, the gore is provided with downwardly I directed horns i8 and IS, the first of which may extend down so as to be lasted in with the other of wear, although permitting sufficient stretch of the top of the shoe to insure ease at this point and to facilitate donning and dofllng of the shoe ,even though the laces be not fully loosened.

While one desirable embodiment of the invention has herein been illustrated, it is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited to the particular arrangement shown but is to be regarded as broadly inclusive of any and' all modifications falling within the terms of the' appended claim.

I claim:

In combination in a shoe upper having a free top edge, an elastically stretchable gore constituting a portion of said upper and extending downwardly from and defining a part of said top edge, the resistance to elongation being portions of the upper, the horn l9 extending into the junction of the vamp ,with the eyelet stay; thus contributing to the pleasing appearance of the particular design illustrated. It should be understood, however, that it is-not necessary that the gore piece be so cut as to have these downwardly directed horns l8 and I9, as it is quite possible tha't'in other designs of shoe upper the lower edge ll of the gore piece will be substantially straight and parallel to the top edge 8.

Preferably, in order to obtain the maximum benefits of the invention, the gore piece is so shaped and so located with reference to the other parts of the upper that the elastic threads I! incline upwardly and forwardly from the rear edge I! of the gore piece. That is to say, if'these threads were extended across the instep from one gore piece to the other, they would form smooth curves over the instep without sudden. bends or angles. Such an arrangement insures the litmost of elasticity across the instep. More speciiically, the gore should be so arranged that a line A-B, coincident with the upper. edge of greatest at said upper edge, the resistance to stretch progressively decreasing downwardly from said edge, the gore comprising rubber elastic strands extending substantially parallel to said top edge and textile strands intermeshing with the rubber elastic strands to form a coherent fabric structure, the total cross-sectional area of rubber elastic perlinear unit, measured downwardly from said top edge, progressively diminishing, the gorebeing of substantially uniform thickness throughout and of substantially trapezoidal contour with its shorter-base coincident with said top edge whereby the lengths of the rubber elastic strands progressively increase from said top edge downwardly, the gore being wholly forward of the counter portion of the shoe and so located in the upper that a line coincident with the upper edge of the gore, in the completed shoe, will slope so that the rear end of such line will fall below a horizontal plane and, to the rear of a transverse vertical plane each of which is reason of the 

